Do take note though that enamel takes pretty long to dry up. japanese company like tamiya. Water based acylics are the worst, as they essentially just sit on top of the plastic. It’s recommended for hand painting (slower drying allows for additional time for the paint to self level and hide brush strokes). Viewing 2 posts - 1 through 2 (of 2 total) Author Posts July 25, 2010 at 1:40 pm #23279 Thomas […] I put multi layers of acrylic down all the time. But on the other hand, acrylic paint or polyvinyl acetate (PVA) is usually used on outdoor signages, architectural or public murals and the like. Nope. As others have noted, you have to look at the relative 'heat' (solvent power) of the paints to determine what can go over what. What particular kind of coating do you need? It can either be for arts, crafts, home repainting or even car painting; both have their strengths and weaknesses. I don't want to risk damaging the acrylic base (which has had several fine coats of clear acrylic gloss sprayed over) or dissolve the decals. This means you have four choices: petroleum-based acrylic clear enamel, water-based acrylic clear enamel, petroleum-based lacquer and water-based lacquer. Home › Forums › Main Forum › Paint and Refinish › Acrylic Enamel vs Acrylic Urethane This topic has 1 reply, 2 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 5 months ago by Ben Hart. (I'm sure to have a boatload of other questions coming up soon, so bear with me!). Will acrylic enamel paint dry without hardener? If you plan on airbrushing and can stand the smell (and the Earth screaming a little every time you clean the brush), enamels / lacquers have the best consistency and ease of use, especially in tricky work like faded mottling on German armor and planes. The preparations are as important as the painting process itself. If acrylic paint is not allowed to properly breathe, it may split or crack. My approach is to paint with acrylics and top coat with either clear acrylic or clear lacquer. So, according to this chart, I should mostly never base coat with an Acrylic since you should't put anything but Acrylic over it? Likewise, if you will be painting hard to reach areas, you cannot just use big brushes or roller brushes. "acrylic enamel": ad-speak. Enamel is an oil based paint which dries off to a hard glossy finish. They consult the weather, the almanac, the hydrometer, and Nostradamus to determine the best time to airbrush. Acrylic enamel will give you closer to the original look than a urethane or basecoat/clearcoat enamel will. The hard coating makes enamel an ideal choice for walls that collect a lot of moisture, such as bathrooms or kitchens. Ok, I'm no expert on paint (but hopefully somebody who is will come along and elaborate further), but my understanding is the terms acrylic, enamel and lacquer refer to the carrier medium used within the paint and, consequently, affects how to clean up after use. I finish with a coat of matte (e.g., military) or gloss (e.g., race car) to seal-in the detailing. Or, you can paint with acrylic lacquer. Edit: just happened to think, I've put clear lacquer over acrylic many times with no issue and various types of lacquer. I'm not usually a fan of the Internet being a permanenet place for people's musings, but in this case it's totally appreciated. If you are painting a pretty large surface, then be prepared to spend a little bit more. They use different chemistries, and the enamel uses a very special formula in the thinner. The downside about lacquer is it always slightly darkens the acrylic colors. Note: Though many acrylic paints can be cleaned up with water, the term Acrylic refers to the chemical composition of the base. However, if you use a wash/pin wash, it's best to use a paint of one carriers which is different to that of the base coat. Once a light coat has settled and dried, subsequent coats can go on normally. Your lungs will thank you. Next will be a quick shot of Model Master metalizer sealer ( lacquer) over the wash parts and I think the paint is done except maybe a little buffing on the body and wheel detail. I recently started a new model, and when I pulled off some masking tape it pulled up some of the paint. The fire wall too. Instead, the lacquer remains on the paint as a surface coating. Lacquer is more durable. (Though I've had instances where I've aggresively applied lacquer (or enamel) over acrylic with no ill side effects.) So I thnk being flat I should have put a gloss coat on it to help the tape from pulling it up?? If the Enamel is an original baked finish there should be no problem. Then if you used Acrylic and you want a Gloss Coat you should only put Clear Acrylic over that? I will keep attempting to search the forums here for more info, but I think you three have shed a huge light on it for me!! It would be like trying to peel a piece of tape off of another, both will come off. I have found issues spraying lacquers primers over enamel paints. For instance, if you’re painting a wall, then you might need more than just one can of paint for the whole project. I've been modeling for sixty years. But the point being it's all acrylic over acrylic but different brands. But recently I did up a car with stynylrez primer ( acrylic poly), rose gold craft paint ( acrylic) and top coated with 3 full wet coats of Tamiya clear red and blue mixed to a kind of burgundy red. Stay with acrylic enamel and the additive (along with reducer). 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